While
most wines weigh in with a strength of 14 percent or less, there are
some that turn the scales at 15 to 20 percent in alcohol content. These
heavyweights are the exception to the rule that the alcohol in the wine
comes from the grape - or from a little extra sugar added by
chaptalization. Their strength comes from the addition of brandy,
usually during the fermentation process. The brandy in question is not
the tasty, barrel-aged, golden stuff we're used to sipping from balloon
glasses, but a freshly distilled colorless liquid with almost no flavor.
Wines made in this way range from the light grapey Muscat and salty dry
fino sherries of Spain to raisiny Marsala from Italy, rich plumy port,
and tangy marmaladey Madeira.